Antigua Anchorages

The end of March and beginning of April gave us a brief window to sail 12 miles south to Falmouth Harbor, again. We arrived to anchor amid a multitude of boats readying for the Antigua Classic Boat Regatta – a yearly springtime event - and a plethora of cruising boats waiting for the races and festivities to begin. The anchorage and docks were packed. We met up with friends we hadn't seen and became acquainted with new friends just arriving. The weather turned "too windy" again so we tucked in, did boat chores, read copious amounts of books, did some sewing and caught a good assortment of fish. Looking back on the calendar I can't believe we spent 30 days anchored in Falmouth Harbor.

The Antigua Classic Boat race welcomes classic boats from all over the world. These exquisite beauties, traditional or vintage, are divided into three classes: classic, spirit of tradition, and tall ships. They range in size from 30' "Meggie" from Ontario, CA to 136', J-class (1930's America's Cup racers) "Ranger" from Europe, sailing against others in their classes. The week-long regatta begins with the "Concourse d'Elegance" a dockside look at all the boats entered in the regatta, with flags flying, teak shining glass-like in the Caribbean sun, brass glistening beacon-like from the decks, stripped of "modern" equipment, crew cleaning, polishing and readying, these ladies are an impressive gathering. Race week is a crazy time with four days of racing (about 25 miles each day), "rum company" sponsored parties most every night, festivities of one kind or another occurring daily and nightly. We watched the races, met up with friends we hadn't seen in months, drank the rum, ate the food and danced to the music. And what races they were – all boats at the starting line area on staggered starts each competing for the ideal place to begin the race. In the end our favorites "Meggie," "Kate," and "Ranger" each took second place in their class. When it was all over we were ready to move on.

By the beginning of May we were settled in at the north end of Antigua near "Redhead" and "Rabbit" islands in a secluded, remote anchorage with "Conchd Out" and "Nancy Dawson". We shared memories of our times in the North Channel, except for the WARM water and conch hunts. I've dubbed this crew as the "Conch Hunters Extraordinaire" having found 17 in a matter of less than an hour, they deserve honor. We feasted on conch everything: fritters, salad, chowder, curry, cracked, sauteed and whatever else we could think of. Good thing we all liked conch.

A quick trip back to Jolly Harbor for provisions then we sailed back north to beautiful Barbuda. We love this place. The beaches and water the best most pristine we've experienced in the Caribbean. At one point we were one of three boats at our favorite anchorage near Coco Point. Dream Catcher of Jersey, friends we hadn't seen since June 2007 in Trinidad, was anchored just off the beach, waiting for us making our arrival even sweeter. After five glorious days another swell was headed our way so, quite disappointed, we cut our stay short and headed back to Jolly, but catching a nice tuna on the way helped ease the pain. The swell passed, nothing like the 17 footer in early spring, and we had another week or so before we needed to get serious about hauling Kyeta for the summer. Green Island on the east coach of Antigua was the next destination. This group of anchorages is only a morning's sail from English Harbor but feels as remote as the outer islands of the Grenadines. One anchors on the west side of a reef where the next land is Africa or in small coves protected by small, mountainous islands. There are probably 15 or so anchorages in a five mile local making it very inviting to spend lots of time exploring the area. Snorkeling, swimming, dinghying, and socializing filled the week chockablock full, ending all too quickly. We HAD to get back to Jolly – June was fast approaching.

So, at this time, "Kyeta" is high and dry in the yard at Jolly Harbor. We've been okayed, insurance wise, to spend the season in Antigua. She's stripped of all gear from the decks, cleaned inside and out, debugged, vinegared for mildew, and foiled on windows. All clothes, food, books, dishes and utensils are bagged and stored. Somehow it takes a good ten days to get things in order but we manage and have about 36 hours before our flight home to transition our brains and bodies to northern Michigan and living in more a 250 square foot space. We're always happy to be home among family and friends, to catch up on the happenings, to be a part of the on-going daily doings. It doesn't take long to fit back in.

We've seen family and friends, settled into our mom's homes, had our daughter's wedding, begun many projects and made plans for the rest of the summer/fall. We've already said to ourselves it doesn't seem possible that we really were in Antigua just two weeks ago. Four months will fly by before we head back to "Kyeta" in October.

Northern Treasure - Barbuda

The day after saying goodbye to Anne and Tim we, along with Memory, sailed 30 miles north to the remote island of Barbuda, averaging 6 knots, never needing to adjust the sails. According to the cruising guide, Barbuda is "heaven on earth" and we believe it. Approaching this low lying island one can see a blue-green color on the underside of the clouds long before seeing the land. It is the reflection of the crystal, clear turquoise water and white sand bottom. We anchored off Coco Point at the southeast side of the island, one of five boats. The log for this sail reads: "03/13/08 Jolly Harbor, Antigua to Coco Point, Barbuda 6 knots average, 30 miles, 5 hours. The BEST sail!!!!!" We didn't move the boat for four days. Miles of the most perfect beach one can imagine (one unbroken for 11 miles), the clearest turquoise, see-to-the-bottom-in-40-feet water, sunny blue skies that stretch forever, and night heavens filled with reach-out-and-touch twinkling stars. We didn't need to move. We swam, sunned, walked the beach, read, and marveled at how blessed we are to being doing what we do. Our friend, Kelly, was intrigued with this place long before we thought about coming here. How right she was.

Barbuda is home to 1600 people who live in Codrington. From the beaches it is a taxi ride or long walk, not reachable by boat. There are only two, exclusive resorts on the island. Coco Point Lodge, nearest our anchorage, is an all-inclusive place, which includes a private plane ride from the international airport in Antigua, only operational from November to May. (Check out their web page.) It is the people of Barbuda who have managed to keep their island pristine and undeveloped. Only Barbudans may own land and they resist any attempts at developing it or changing their lifestyle. They are descendents of former slaves who worked the island as a farm and for hunting for a plantation family from Antigua. Left alone they maintained an semi-independence not known in other Caribbean islands. They are a welcoming, gracious people who seemed anxious to share their island with us. We will explore the island more on our next visit later this year. Bad weather was coming and Memory was hauling out for the season on the 20th so we lifted anchor and returned to Jolly Harbor all nicely tanned and relaxed. Unbelievably, the log for the return trip reads: "03/16/08 Coco Point to Jolly Harbor, 6.3 knots average, 30 miles, 4.75 hours. WOW!! Another great sail – two in a row." We decided we deserved it after that trip from St. Kitts.

We spent two days at anchor awaiting the bad weather. Chris, our weather guy, told of a "significant swell event" moving in, with prediction of heights of 17 feet in our area. To a landlubber that means 34 feet of water from trough to crest. Yikes!! It came down with a vengeance from the Canadian Maritime where there were hurricane force winds. Locals had not seen anything like this in 30 to 40 years. Beaches closed with warnings to stay away. Boats deserted the anchorages for slips in the marina. Charter boats returned after an hour not to venture out again. I write this at a calm, restful slip in Jolly Harbor Marina. Told Denny yesterday that I am staying through Tuesday, so we will spend my birthday and Easter attached to the dock expecting the weather to improve sometime next week.

The Good, Bad and Downright Ugly

We spent another week in St. Martin anchoring on the French side of this two country island, French on the north and Dutch on the south, we love it here. (GOOD) In the 90s when we were chartering we had discovered the local dockside, open air restaurant, "Talk of the Town," where we had lobster and "sides" (salad, mac & cheese, potato salad, etc.). We were thrilled to see the "ladies" still serving so of course had to partake – not lobster this time but the mahi and ribs were delicious, too. We love the anchorage at Grande Case but in a windy, north swell it can be a bit rolly. We also discovered after a time that we needed new batteries and a regulator for our wind generator, so moved to another nearby anchorage - the lagoon, that separates the French and Dutch sides of the island. St. Marteen (Dutch side) is the place to repair, replace or purchase boat stuff as there are no import taxes to inflate the costs - best to take care of that here. Kyeta now has four new batteries and a regulator and Denny is happy. We also checked out new sails (ours are the 1991 original sails) as we had gotten quotes in various places along the way. Steve from Quantum Sails measured and we committed to a new main and jib to be picked up in November 2008. Denny is soooooo excited. He figures he'll win the races for sure. (Race - any two boats sailing in the same direction.)

The weather settled a bit and we needed to return to Antigua as we had more friends arriving in early March. Rather than a direct, 100 mile return trip one can head south to Statia, St. Kitts and Nevis, more miles but shorter hops between and more palatable. We also wanted to spend more time in St. Kitts. We spent one very rolly night (BAD) at anchor in Statia never getting off the boat and left at daybreak the next morning for St. Kitts. Arriving at a surging, rolling anchorage we actually took a slip at the marina where we had spent a few nights on our way south in 06. St. Kitts is one of those islands that "brush the clouds" with its central mountain range rising 3,750 feet into the rain forest. The lower, south side of the island is flat with mangroves, salt ponds, livestock (cows, goats, monkeys) and quiet anchorages. We wanted to explore the island and it is an easy day trip by rental car around the island so Carey and Rick on "Memory" join us and we take in many of the island highlights: Brimstone Hill Fortress, a wonderfully restored British fort with spectacular views of neighboring islands; Rawlins Plantation, a former sugarcane plantation/manor turned restaurant/hotel (buffet lunch was delicious); Kate Design Gallery, original local theme paintings by Kate Spencer; and the Romney Manor, home to Caribelle Batik.

We enjoyed another couple days in St. Kitts, watched the weather religiously and decided to make a run for Antigua when the winds SUPPOSEDLY backed to northeast and the seas diminished to 5 feet. Anchoring in Cockleshell Bay on the south side of the island, gave us a head start on the 45 miles sail that should have taken about 9 hours. Our friends on Memory were with us – it's always comforting to have others nearby. The log entry for this trip states: "3/3/08, St. Kitts – 6:30 AM Jolly Harbor, Antigua – 8:15 PM. 62 miles, 4.7 knot average supposedly a 45 mile trip! godawful!" (DOWNRIGHT UGLY) This would have been a perfect time for mutiny but Kyeta is a good, seaworthy boat and we made it.

We enjoyed a week with our friends, Anne and Tim from TC. We had a few good sails back and forth between Jolly and Falmouth, took in some of the tourist sights and snorkeled at one of the nearby reefs. Tim ran every day, Denny fished. Ann/e read, sunned, talked and enjoyed. We were happy to introduce some of our cruising friends to them, sharing meals and happy hours. Anne announced on one evening after visiting with one of our cruising buddies "OK, we like each other..." It was a wonderful week, only marred by their having to return to TC. We tried to convince them to extend their visit but only received a promise of returning next year. We miss them.

On to points north...

North from Trinidad

Today is February 18, 2008, we arrived back in Trinidad four months ago today. Time has passed without realization of how quickly. Kyeta has carried us from Trinidad in November to St. Maarten in February with numerous and familiar stops along the way. We continue to meet up with old friends from past years, some we've not seen since our first year out, others since only last spring. It's always such a treat to hear on the VHF radio "Kyeta, Kyeta, this is _______ calling Kyeta" and know that a friend is nearby. We also have met new friends from around the world and a few with ties from Traverse City and Elk Rapids, convincing us once again how small this planet it.

Of the four months we've been back in the Caribbean, family and friends have visited for 43 days. Beginning with Margaret and Priscilla arriving in Trinidad and sailing north with us to the Grenadines; Jeanette landing in Martinique heading north to Guadeloupe; Mike and Corrine (one week) in Antigua and ending with Scott (another week). Each visit a unique experience - from an earthquake in Bequia, to islanding hopping through the French Islands, to a full week of illness/bad weather, to a lost bag that arrived the day before departure, it's all part of the cruising life and we've loved having the company and sharing all this with them.

So, a few highlights of these four months, other than our visitors of course . . .

Trinidad: Duvali - an annual Hindu holiday. 120 cruisers were treated to a Hindu religious ceremony witha visit to a temple for dancing, music, and a short explanation of the celebration, a feast of local food served on banana leaves, at long community tables, and baggies of "sweets" handed out in welcome by the local people gathered in the streets. It is the festival of lights held yearly on the darkest night of the year. In the town, streets and buildings are lit up with thousands of candles and lights. People wander the streets in their finery welcoming all those around. It was a calm, serene, peaceful night.

Great sails coming north. Some good fishing - a 40" mahi for Christmas, a small but nice tuna arriving in St. Maarten and a decent size yellow snapper moving to St. Martin.

Bequia earthquake: 7.4 quake centered deep in the ocean off Martinique but felt up and down the chain. As we head into Bequia the mast begins to "thump" (our mast doesn't do that? but there is a definite rumbling sound, Denny thinks motor shaft but we're not in gear, lasting for 30 seconds or so. Boring Alice (friends in their dinghy) is doing a photo shoot of Kyeta and Silver Seas (our sister ship) and takes a rather large wave over the dinghy bow. Once we anchored and got to shore we discovered what had happened. We think volcanoes and hurricanes in this part of the world but not necessarily earthquakes.

Christmas in Les Saintes: arrived here in time for the Christmas Eve live nativity reenactment by the young children of the island; the streets filled with local families and tourists reminiscing the meaning of Christmas, singing familiar carols in French while we sang along in English. We love this place.

Whale sighting: heading north from Guadeloupe to Antigua on a lumpy, windy sail just after deciding to go on rather than turn back, Denny says "I think I saw a whale or maybe it was just a wave." It was VERY lumpy. I peek out from behind the dodger and am treated to a sight we've not experienced before - a good size whale breeching clear out of the ocean. Less than a minute later another sighting but much closer and coming our way. Yikes!! Then it was gone - incredible, scary and exciting all at the same time.

New Year's Eve in Falmouth/English Harbor Antigua: visited Lord Nelson's Dockyard, a restored historical area where the British fleet were housed during colonial times. Nelson was responsible for the final British victory over the French navy securing British domination in this hemisphere. The reason we speak English rather than French. Dinner on friends' boat, dancing on the docks and fireworks at midnight. Quite the festivities.

We remained in Antigua through January never having visited this island before and we awaited arriving visitors and explored the island leisurely. Although the weather was very windy causing large northern ocean swells thus limiting many of the anchorages we could get to , we toured the island by local bus and rental car, made arrangements to haul Kyeta there this spring, and met up with more and more friends coming and going. Our "visa" and cruising permit ran out so we could either pay $150 or check out of the country, visit another and return later. When we return we'll get to those remote anchorages and the island of Barbuda.

Thus, in early February we opted to sail to St. Barths, a 75 mile trip northwest of Antigua. Expecting a 15 hour trip (5K average) we actually arrived in Gustavia in 11 hours and 22 minutes, averaging 6.6K, a quick sail with reefed main and no jib. Four days in St. Barths and then on to St. Maarten, another quick sail with a small tuna for dinner that night. Weather has been WINDY and squally throughout the area so we remained on the Dutch side of the island until there was a brief lull and then moved to the French side - St. Martin where we'll be before heading back to SABA (maybe), St. Kitts and finally Antigua.

February: Social Security sign-up. Denny turns 62 in April. Could do it over the phone from St. Maarten. Can't believe it!

It has been a good season. We've meet new friends and become reacquainted with old one; said goodbye to friends heading in different directions; had visitors;, caught fish; returned to favorite spots and explored new ones. Kyeta is doing well and we are both happy and healthy. We are thankful for our many blessings and that GW only has a few months left. Anti-American (not the people)/Bush sentiment is strong in the Caribbean and folks don't hold back on expressing them. We welcome the coming change.

Returning to Kyeta in Trinidad

It's hard to believe that October is here and that we are packed and ready to return to Kyeta in Trinidad. The summer has come and gone in ways that time passes in northern Michigan in June, July and August. We always find so many things to do and people to see that we never seem to have enough time. And then departure day comes and we are off to the islands for another season.

We left Trinidad in early June arriving home with projects to complete, people to visit and places to go. We took a few days to sail with friends on their boats but it never seems to be enough. As we look longingly at the white sails skimming across Grand Traverse Bay we ponder how we could have a boat here again. We miss Kyeta, but it is always wonderful to spend time with our family and we welcomed the return of our daughter, Ashley, from Oregon. It's good to have her around and she is doing well. Weddings and babies were the family topics of the summer. The kids are growing up.

We farmed/gardened, logged trees, constructed a fort, repaired and remodeled houses, and generally kept busy. We visited with friends and felt we had never been gone. A class reunion, appointments for this and that, and launching of "Up North Foodies" (a community blog site - check it out) filled in the balance of the summer. And now it's October.

A quick trip to the Annapolis Boat Show last week helped get us back in the cruising mood. We saw people we had met our first year cruising, as well as some we had sailed with last year. It was so good to be with these folks again, it is a rare and unique community. It is bittersweet in that our paths will cross again this season with some of them but others are taking time off and others are staying way north. We won't necessarily be cruising together but we will stay in touch.

So, what does this year bring? A trip to the Orinoco River will start the season - it is close to Trinidad, part of Venezuela. We're heading north from there. Not sure how far north, but when we get to Puerto Rico we will decide for sure. Options considered are hurricane season there or someplace close by, continue to the Western Caribbean and hurricane season in the Rio Dulce, or head for the US east coast for the season. At this point we are not ready to bring Kyeta home for good. The sadness of this is that we part ways with many friends who are sailing off in different directions.

Family and friends have promised to visit this year, maybe they think it's now or never (in the Caribbean at least) but we are delighted. My sister, Margaret and a friend, Priscilla will meet us in Trinidad and sail north with us to the Grenadines. They will be the first of possibly six groups. We are so happy to share our experiences and are glad to have them aboard.

Our journey continues as will the log. We love hearing from friends and family and welcome short emails. So...this is to be continued from the Caribbean.

Grenadines Revisited #2

The end of March has us making our way to Union Island, the southern most Grenadine, to pick up our friends, Kelly and Glen. Since we began cruising they have spent each spring break with us wherever we are - Nassau, George Town, Virgin Islands and now the Grenadines. We chose this spot because it is one of our favorites; the islands accessible, the anchorages varied, the water clear and warm, snorkeling spectacular, the islanders welcoming and friendly - we knew they would enjoy it.

We met them as they arrived at the airport on Union. It was a five minute walk to Kyeta anchored in the main channel of Clifton just off the Bougainvillea Resort. We were to spend a few days in the southern islands and then make our way up the chain to Bequia for the Easter Regatta.

Most cruisers monitor the VHF local channel for news, hailing friends and services. When talking to some they switch to a working channel, but many charters don't have a clue about good radio etiquette. Two such boats had allowed the children on board free reign of the VHF. They entertained the anchorage off and on throughout the two days. One conversation regarded the "Happy Island" beach bar located on a reef in the middle of the harbor owned and operated by a "Rasta" man. The kids had gotten word that they "did drugs" on the island. After unsuccessfully trying to reach their parents to inform them, they relayed this warning on VHF. "Mom, Dad, this is a warning, don't go to that "Happy Place". They do drugs and smoke dope there. Warning, don't go there, stay away." This on the VHF for all to hear. Don't know if they parents got the warning but we did anchor near them at another spot and they were still "chatting" on the VHF.

We made our way a brief 12 miles north to Mayreau to anchor in the protection of the windward side of the island. Swells and wind were whipping up the surf and howling through the rigging but the surrounding reefs protected us and made it tenable. The small village in the middle of this island only hooked up electricity five years ago. One restaurant here makes the best homemade bread in the islands. Three loaves to go and we head back to the boat. And the rain came in sheets, Denny and Glen gathering as fast they could store it in anything they could find. They figure about 25 gallons worth - laundry and showers for the week.

Finally the weather cleared, so we headed about five miles to Tobago Cays to anchor with many charter boats - it is Easter week after all. This is the area that is protected by a great reef to the east so one anchors on the east side near some small islands. The view east is a clear shot of the Atlantic Ocean all the way to Africa; it actually is eerie thinking about it so I don't. We snorkeled the reefs, swam in clear, warm water and played Mexican Train Dominoes on the beach where the locals thought we were rather strange as we continued in the rain. We do love this spot. Time moving on so it north to Canouan. Trump has just built a resort/gulf course on this island. Very mixed feelings about it among the locals. We had enough time for a shore visit to the local elementary track meet and a swim from the boat in the anchorage before heading on to Bequia.
Our aim was to be in Bequia for the opening race of the Easter Regatta on Saturday morning. We pulled in for a quick day stop at Petit Nevis, the old whaling station for Bequia. The island is allowed two whales a year for community use. They harpoon them the old fashioned way in an 18 foot sailboat with six men on board. They were again successful this year just about a week before we arrived. It is an amazing feat regardless of how one feels about hunting whales. They whole community takes part in preparing the oil and meat and use it all.

Bequia's Easter Regatta was a whirlwind of activity, the harbor and town busier than at Christmas. Boats from all over the Caribbean sail or are towed to take part in the daily races around, in and through the anchorage. The locally made "double enters", their 18 to 27 feet length and colorful sails breeze through the anchorage between boats at anchor to cross the finish line near a town beach. It is a photographers dream. There are J24s, cruisers, racers, spinnakers, and dinghies races - the competition keen and intense. From shore young children race their homemade, coconut husk boats modeled after the larger double enders. The sponsors of the events are Heineken, Mount Gay and Pepsi so there is abundant liquid refreshment and partying to go around. It is a mingling of local folks, cruisers, and sailors all interested in one thing - sailing.

The weekend quickly came to an end as Kelly and Glen readied to head home. Bags packed - much lighter than when they arrived - last minute stops in town made, taxi to the airport reserved. We've had a wonderful time with them again this year and think they did too. We are always saddened when they leave. We were delighted to be able to share with them one of the special places of our world.

We've been here almost a month now. We'll stay for another few days when we head south to Grenada. Trinidad awaits, haul out for Kyeta is June 1st.

Grenadines Revisited

The Grenadines are the chain of small islands lying south of St. Vincent and north of Carriacou, Grenada. They are part of St. Vincent and connect to the "mainland" by daily ferries, planes and the "government." Each island with its own personality and draw: Bequia - the hub of island activity; Mustique, Palm, and Petit St. Vincent - hoity-toity and private; Mayreau, Canouan, and Union - somewhat underdeveloped; and Tobago Cays - the now marine reserve, a spectacular anchorage behind a reef with a view all the way to Africa. Next to Grand Traverse Bay and the Virgin Islands this area with it's multitude of anchorages and the day-sail ease of reaching them is a very enjoyable place to cruise. We have sailed here a number of times in the last ten years. We decided that this was the place to meet Kelly and Glen for spring break - fly into Union and out of Bequia - we wouldn't have to repeat any anchorage for ten days and it was the annual Easter Regatta in Bequia. So be it – to the Grenadines for Easter. It's about 200 miles to Bequia - to Mackinaw Island and back. We left ourselves about ten days to manage this with short day hops down the island chain.

We check with Chris Parker, our weather guru, and it seemed we would have good brisk winds hopefully out of the east or a little northeast. From the Saintes to Dominica the first 35 miles we maintained our average of 5 to 5.5 knots and anchored just north of the main town of Roseau off the small village of Canefield. Our plan to "yellow flag it" meant we wouldn't check into customs. It was to be an early morning start the next day to reach Grande Anse, Martinique before dark. We hauled anchor just as the dawn broke in an absolutely flat, calm anchorage and hoisted sail under motor. We thought we might have to motorsail to Martinique but as the winds picked up a bit we gently sailed the five miles to the southern tip of Dominica and hoped that the prediction of 15 – 20 knot winds and 5 foot seas would give us a doable, quick sail. We had reefed the mainsail, a habit we recently acquired, had the dinghy on the tow like usual when we rounded the tip the weather forecast quickly surpassed our worst expectations. We were blasted by winds at a steady 28-30 knots with gusts of 35 and building, 10 foot seas breaking around us. As we were putting in the second reef Denny said "I'm for going back." He radioed Audrey Paige who was nearby and before he could relay the complete question of "How do you feel about turning back?" they had said "yes" and were turned heading north again. Sailing back to the anchorage was a fast beam run in flat seas. We ended up in Canefield for another two nights waiting for decent weather. Whoever said "sailing is hours of boredom interspersed with seconds are sheer terror" is absolutely correct.

We sail south averaging 6.3 knots between Dominica and Martinique and then have to motorsail in the lee of the island. Denny thinks the engine is vibrating too much again and is quite concerned so it's a slower motorsail/sail to Grande Anse for a quiet night at anchor. Still the engine vibration continues even after a slight adjustment so we will sail to Marin and check it again. The 15 miles around to the south shore of the island should take 2.5 to 3 hours it takes us six hours - no reliable engine, wind on the nose and unfavorable current. Celebrated my birthday out for dinner, did laundry at 9:30 PM and contemplated vibration problems.

Aligning the engine we discover two broken engine mounts - ah, the vibration problem and a worn exhaust hose. The chandlery had the necessary parts on the shelf at three times the price than in the States but oh, well.....Working until 9:00 PM in close, cramped quarters, in places one can't even begin to see, Denny with my help changed four engine mounts, aligned, and started the engine with an "Oh, yea!, that's much better." The following morning, the exhaust hose, manifold and mixing elbows were replaced. Thank goodness he can figure all this out.

Time was running short so another early morning start for St. Lucia. We couldn't dally there so headed directly to the southern most anchorage between the Pitons. An incredible sail - all day - six hours, 40 miles, average 6.5 knots; some 25 knot gusts of wind in squalls and rain but it was OK and we were "hauling ass" as they say.

We picked up a mooring ball in a truly spectacular anchorage directly between the Pitons. Petit and Gros Piton rise majestically straight out of the sea. Nestled snuggly between them in a lush, green valley that flows to the shore are a couple tropical island hotels and a number of small private homes. The sunset of pinks, oranges, yellows and grays marked the end of a perfect day. We sat in the cockpit after dinner as the gentle wind rocked the boat watching the lights on the shore and hillside and listening to the wonderful, romantic, sensual sounds of a sax playing songs familiar enough to hum along. Wow!!

Tomorrow to Bequia for reprovisioning and cleaning. A slow trip due to wind on the nose and adverse current. We did average 5 knots overall and at times hit 6.5. We were happy to be back in Bequia. The highlight of the trip was catching a nice blackfin tuna about five miles from the anchorage at Admiralty Bay. Three days to spare. I think we can make it to Union on time.